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天美影视传媒

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Journey to Civit脿 di Bagnoreggio

Amity Neumeister, UW Rome Center (UWRC) Resident Director, shares about her recent visit to Civit脿 di Bagnoreggio with UWRC alumna Leah Martin ’97 to meet with the husband of the late Astra Zarina, founder of the UW Rome Center.

The first time I visited Civit脿 di Bagnoreggio, I was on a holiday break from my study abroad program in Siena. My father and stepmother had come to visit for Christmas and we spent several days driving around Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio, discovering interesting towns to explore for the afternoon, getting lost in the beauty and intrigue of this foreign land that was already starting to feel like home. We set our sights one day on Civit脿 di Bagnoreggio.

Walking up the bridge

After parking our car before the long bridge up to the tiny town that sits perched on top of a plateau of volcanic tuff (鈥渢ufo鈥 in Italian) overlooking the Tiber river valley, we traversed that long bridge up to the town. As we entered into the main piazza of Civit脿, I remember looking to my right and being blown away by a sign that said (among other things) 鈥淯niversit脿 di Washington鈥. While I wasn鈥檛 a Husky at the time鈥擨 had opted to go to University of Puget Sound in Tacoma for my undergraduate studies鈥擨 distinctly remember being struck by this coincidence, wondering who, what, when and how there was a connection between the massive UW and this little, tiny hilltop town in the middle of Italy, thousands of miles away from Seattle. We didn鈥檛 have cell phones or regular access to the internet in those days, so those questions remained with me for quite some time.

Fast forward five years, and I鈥檝e completed my MBA at UW (now finally a Husky), and I鈥檓 working at the UW School of Medicine. One of my colleagues mentions to me one day that his daughter, Lauren Easterling, is doing an internship at the 天美影视传媒 Rome Center. I remember asking myself, How did I not know the UW had a Rome Center? (even though I had lived less than a mile from it after I ended my study abroad program and moved to Rome for a bit before returning back home).

Amity Neumeister and Leah Martin in Rome
Leah Martin (left), Amity Neumeister (right)

And we fast forward again to three weeks ago, when I had the opportunity鈥攏ow as Resident Director of the UW Rome Center鈥攖o go back to Civit脿 for the first time since that first venture long ago when I was at university and to meet Anthony (Tony) Costa Heywood, husband of the late Astra Zarina, founder of the UWRC. Over the years, I鈥檝e heard lots of stories about the history, vision, challenges, influence and ultimately unparalleled legacy of Professor Zarina. Knowing that her husband Tony, who helped Zarina design and renovate the UWRC in the early 1980s, was just a little over an hour away with answers to questions I still had from my very first visit to Civit脿 felt like pieces to a puzzle that hadn鈥檛 been accessible before Leah Martin, a 1997 alumna of the UWRC, stopped by to see the renovated UWRC last month. Leah mentioned that she might go visit Tony, and I jumped on the opportunity, inviting myself to join her on her tip. So up we drove up those windy roads to Civit脿 to see that marvelous tiny town once again, and once again I saw the sign that proudly says 鈥淯niversit脿 di Washington鈥 in the main square.

Sitting room and fireplace
Inside Tony and Astra’s home

But more importantly this time, I got to traverse the bridge and make a connection with Tony, who鈥檚 one of only now seven permanent residents of the town. Having no phone number or email for Tony, we went unannounced and had no idea what to expect. We found his front door literally open (the Civit脿 Institute that Tony co-founded with Astra was hosting an educational program that week), and after calling his name for a bit and waking him up from a nap, he welcomed us into his home that he had shared with Astra since the early 1960s. I saw signs of Astra鈥檚 influence and legacy on the UWRC everywhere in his home鈥攂ut most immediate and striking were the same red architect lamps that we still have at the UWRC. Tony shared stories of Astra and the UWRC, and Leah and he reminisced about her study abroad experience in Rome, driving up to Civit脿 with Astra as a bossy copilot by her side, having elaborate dinners Astra cooked for the students in her effort to introduce her students fully to the culture and traditions of the Italian people, only occasionally washing their clothes in the public wash basins carved out of the same tufo upon which the town sits.

It鈥檚 a bridge I鈥檝e wanted to cross for a long time since I became the Resident Director in 2015. Perhaps not by coincidence, my father and聽stepmother are visiting again this week, and I鈥檝e asked Tony if we could come up again for another visit. I look forward to learning a little bit more again this time about Tony鈥檚 life and Astra鈥檚 legacy to the 天美影视传媒.